Culture Briefings

The debate for cultured diamonds

Recently an article in Wall Street journal caught my eye. Titled Gem Warfare (subscription only), the article discusses lab-produced diamonds and the De Beer’s struggle to exert control over the growing industry.

My community (Gujarati) is reknowned in India for belonging to the diamond trade. Several extended family members have been in this trade for decades, losing their eyesight over years to understand the intricacies of the stone.

I first heard about Gemesis, the first company to make real quality gems in a lab, in 2004 when I was helping a friend in the diamond industry set up his new e-commerce site. Infact, Wired magazine was quicker to pick up this story back in 2003 when companies like Gemesis were still in their nascent stages. Now, I do not claim to be an expert on the industry but I suppose being a woman, I have a perspective on diamonds. (Blame De Beers for making me an unofficial expert on diamonds)

The more recent WSJ article picks up on several other companies that have since mastered the art and technique of producing real quality diamonds in a lab. Apollo Diamonds uses thin diamond wafers or a diamond ’seed’ to grow real-quality diamonds using a process called Chemical Vapor Deposition. Gemesis on the other hand, created diamonds by simulating the high pressure+ high temperature environment needed for natural diamonds- in a lab.

The crux of the article and the newly shaping industry revolves around it’s battle with De Beers to rid the consumers of the notion that these lab-produced diamonds are not real.  De Beers has polarized it’s efforts and is lobbying the lawmakers to avoid these companies from using the word, ‘cultured.’ It is De Beers’ opinion that lab-produced diamonds are synthetic and not real.  (I’m not sure, so are test-tube babies not real babies? Cultured pearls not real pearls?)

De Beers has also ramped up it’s famous Diamond is Forever campaign and it now educates visitors about why a real diamond is special, citing that it takes a billion years for a real diamond to form. The company’s relectuance to accept a natural evolution of the industry is explained by the fact that De Beers controls and owns about 45% of the diamond market. Man-made diamonds, according to the WSJ article are about 15% less expensive than real diamonds but the Wired article claims that they are even less expensive. 

I am certain that the market is not ready to accept and embrace these man-made diamonds right now, but with companies that have slogans like ‘Diamonds are for everyone," the market is bound to change it’s perception about these diamonds. What makes a diamond, a diamond, really? In 2007, my answer is it’s rarity. But come 2017, my answer will be: it’s chemical composition. And I believe that will be the answer of the general populace. The price may become more affordable once the rarity of diamonds is replaced with abundance.

Think about it. Companies like De Beers and other esteemed jewelers have invested so much money over the years in giving diamond it’s august status that every woman desires it. Every man strives to save just enough so he can buy his girl a diamond. These companies have created the desire. And the demand. And lab-produced cultured diamonds will grow to meet this desire and demand. Middle-class households, college grads, and everyoen else will be able to afford diamonds. What a world will that be? We are already living in an era where elite designer ware is mass-marketed, designer clothes are mass-produced and designer-lives are lived. What’s to stop us from experiencing this luxury when it comes to jewels?

Because they are devoid of ethical and environmental concerns (as opposed to mined diamonds) and no one was harmed in the process, celebs like Terrence Howard are also promoting these diamonds and gravitating towards the ’cause’ in adopting cultured diamonds. And once the celebrity angle kicks in, the publicity kicks in and before we know it, these real man-made diamonds will be just as credible as the mined diamonds.

The WSJ article points out that the cultured pearl’s industry killed the natural pearl industry. Sure, but that is evolution. Of an industry, of a mindset, of a culture. And my guess is, we are on the threshold of the evolution of the diamond industry.

I’m sure we will hear more about this debate in the coming years. And what an interesting debate it will be!